(2 in this case would be 2 x 10,000, or 20K, so the little mark halfway between the 2 and the zero (far right) is 10K, or 10,000 ohms. On this meter, you would be forced to use the "R X 10,000" scale for the secondary, so on the top scale, 9.83K of your BW coil would be WAYYY down at the right between the 2 and the 0. I've never understood why these were so well liked, because the scale selection was just plain crappy. This scale is selected by "R x 1", and if you select "R x 100" you multiply the scale by 100, so the top reading in that case s 2000 x 100, or 200,000, or 200K. If you look at the very top "ohms" scale, you can see that on the far left it goes to 2K, or 2000 ohms Here's a photo of an old standby, the "famous" Simpson 260 Multimeters, used to be called "a VOM" for volt - ohm - milliameter, have all kinds of different ways of changing ranges. I started out with short runs, monitoring coil heat "by feel." After I got past an hour or two, and finally one hot summer day of nearly 3 hours of almost continuous running, with no excessive coil heat, I decided "all was good." In my particular case, I'm running a stock Mopar factory coil driven by a GM HEI module, with no ballast. Research your ignition system, whether Mallory, MSD, HEI, or whatever, and make sure that the coil you have employs the proper ballast resistor IF NEEDED It is important to make sure that whatever combination you have IS COMPATIBLE with each other. These things affect the way the magnetic field is formed, collapses, and generates the spark. Coils have a magnetic core, and beginning with such systems as modern epoxy coils and the GM HEI, engineers began to experiment and develop better core materials, as well as stuff like the GM "E core" meaning the shape of the core. This is known as a "high ratio" coil, a term which you may run into.īUT THAT is not the real story. Generally, the lower the primary, and the higher the secondary means higher voltage output. Generally, lower primary resistance means the coil draws more current, makes more magnetic field, and is capable of making higher voltage spark. It surely must be 9.83K, or 9830, or nearly 10K or 10,000, in round numbers. So your meter may have resistance ranges of something like 1000 (zero to 1000 ohms, or 1 K) 10K or more (zero to 10,000, or 10K, with better accuracy above 1000 ohms), then 100K, and on up to 1M for 1 million, etc, etc. K means thousands, (not the fraction thousanths) and M means Mega or millions, so say, 4.x M ohms means 4.x MILLION ohms. The Taylor you mentioned, if 4.7 is the correct DIGITS, will be 4.7K, or in other words 4700. in the same way that the voltage goes up in steps of range, so does resistance measurements. I have no idea what you have, it may have an "auto" (automatic range) function, or completely manual range. First, the two secondary figures you mentioned, taylor at 4.7, and your BW at 9.83 ARE INCORRECT What is a good number of ohms to have on a coil? and what are the differences between ohms in a coil? does a lower or higher resistance give more power to the ignition or give more spark? this is something i know nothing about so just curious to know.Ĭoils are much more complicated than just resistance. Out of curiousity i pulled the coil off my engine and tested it, its a borg warner select ignition coil that i got from oreilly auto parts and it came with a life time warranty, the primary resistance of my borg warner is 2.0 ohms and the secondary resistance is 9.83 ohms. Is it better to have low primary and secondary resistance? what does it mean to have a low or high primary or secondary resistance? like for example the mallory canister coil the chrome one has a primary resistance of 1.4 ohms and a secondary resistance of 10.0 ohms, the taylor coil has a primary resistance of 0.7 ohms and its secondary resistance is 4.7 ohms. Today i was looking at some ignition coils, and i noticed that different brands post what the primary and secondary resistances of there coils are.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |